Tuesday, August 30, 2011

sugar holiday

In celebration of tradition, a drummer goes around the city hitting his bass drum methodically to wake people up before the morning prayer so they may fast before they eat. It's around 3am. However, today is Bayram. The end of the fast. We woke up late, got dressed in our best clothes, and wished each other iyi bayramlar. We kissed our elders' hands and my Tayze slipped me 50 lire. Neighbor kids came around asking for candy, and to each other and guests we served chocolate (thus the holiday is also called seker bayram).

 For the holiday you are obligated to visit your older relatives or call them if too far away. We called most who are living in Istanbul.  We don't visit our Aunt, Uncle, and cousin that are living here because of some feud that began before Hakan's wedding. But, we do visit Tolga's brother's in-laws. I find this a very weird and aggravating obligation. They are not my relatives. They are not Tolga's relatives. Yet, we are expected to visit. Tolga tells me its normal and a Turkish thing, but I am suspicious that it is unique to our family. They have taken an unusual liking to Tolga so we are required to come. The thing is, it's kind of torturous for me because it means sitting for several hours as a mute. I don't understand enough to participate and can hardly follow the conversation. We are served course after course of food so I just eat and drink. First Turkish coffee, then baclava and a cookie, then watermelon and plums and apples. The family speaks German as well, but studying Turkish has forced out my ability to answer in a different language. I used to understand German well enough, but now - even if I do, I can't hardly even remember how to reply yes, no or thank you as my first response that comes to my head is in Turkish. (I hope that's a sign my Turkish is getting better).

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